Rick Owens Spring 2026: Dark Glamour Meets Delicacy in Paris

PetitePaulina – Rick Owens rarely embraces softness. His fashion language has long thrived on leather, metal, and industrial grit. Yet for Spring 2026 in Paris, the American designer stepped into new territory — quite literally. Models waded through the shallow reflecting pool behind the Palais de Tokyo, their chiffon hems trailing in ankle-deep water while platform boots splashed dramatically.

“I don’t really do delicate that much,” Owens remarked with his signature dry wit. “And I thought, ‘I’m gonna try that.’”

Owens’ Version of Delicacy

However, “delicate” in the Owens universe does not mean fragile lace or dainty pastels. Instead, he layered sheer fabrics one over another, creating garments that revealed yet restrained. He described the approach as “very suppressed nudity.”

Moreover, his take on lingerie dressing — a dominant European trend this season — looked unlike anyone else’s. Transparent chiffon capes floated from anvil-shaped shoulders cast in metal, while dresses carried architectural seams reminiscent of stocking tops. Even ribbons, nylon, and leather entered the mix, treated with Owens’ familiar edge.

Dark Glamour With Hollywood Echoes

Despite his industrial aesthetic, Old Hollywood glamour always lingers in Owens’ work. This season, it surfaced in long, low-slung tank gowns, gauzy bomber jackets with billowing sleeves, and cropped jackets featuring Dracula-style collars.

In addition, his staging amplified the drama. Fog machines roared, bone-shaking soundscapes filled the air, and towering staircases delivered models directly into the pool. Yet, against all odds, the collection radiated elegance. Many attendees even called it one of his most beautiful presentations in years. The finale, with every model returning for one last collective wade through the water, felt undeniably cinematic.

Inspiration Across the Street

Owens credited his ongoing exhibition, Temple of Love, at the Palais Galliera for inspiring this shift. Reflecting on it, he said: “One thing about getting a retrospective, it reminds you of endurance. We’re living through grotesque times, and a steely tenacity is not the worst thing.”

A Rare Respite in Owens’ World

Ultimately, Owens proved that strength and delicacy can coexist. His Spring 2026 collection balanced fragility with resilience, offering an unexpected moment of beauty in turbulent times. For Owens, embracing delicacy did not weaken his vision. Instead, it revealed endurance in a new, more nuanced form.